Ambika Aryal
I made a plan to start the New Year with an exciting journey. I am always eager to travel and I have visited most of the parts of my country, however, I have not been in the lap of the Himalayas even being a daughter of Himalaya. Therefore I planned for Mustang. The people who had been Mustang advised me to carry heavy clothes, medicines, and some food. They also shared their trouble due to the high altitude. Hence I prepared some medicines, clothes, and food for the journey. It was not a needed guide to get there. As the vehicle would reach the Muktinath temple, the road would act as a guide. We made up our minds that we would ask different people about the historical and religious values of a particular place and temple when we need.
We went to Gorkha from Kathmandu the day before. The next day, we decided to leave Gorkha early in the morning. As we crossed the Marshyangdi River the cold and clean water touched my heart and feeling. My thinking traveled to Kathmandu and found that the Bishnumati and Bagmati are flowing with the sewage of Kathmandu. Curiosity grew as to when the sanitation campaign by the government and non-government bodies would be fruitful. The rivers and their water are one of the attractions for the tourist but why such a thing are being hatred in our country? This question kept gripping my mind. How to avoid polluting the river in our country I started to search for a solution. Therefore, my face turned more anxious than enjoying the beauty of nature.
My elder sister, Chahana, who was traveling with us, asked me, “Why your face has frowned in such a clean and beautiful place?” Then I could immerse myself in the beauty of the place and I dived into the beautiful nature of the Pritivi Highway.
I tried to enjoy the green forests, rocks, incessantly flowing rivers, greenery, and settlements along the road as far as I could see. I have traveled by that road many times however, today I was delighted by the curiosity that something new has returned with the New Year. Maybe, there was nothing different but I thought my looks were different for creating a new sense. I also felt that our car seemed very beautiful and new too.
There is no tendency to set aside time for traveling in our society. We have Always work pressure whether it is urban life or rural life. In our country, the number of people like frogs of the well is more. Today, I was trying to move out from the well of Kathmandu valley. It was my first journey to the Himalayan region. Hence, I was fully excited to touch the snow closely.
On reaching Pokhara, we were mesmerized by the view of the mountains with the background of Machhapuchhre Himal in the curtain of clear sky. Everyone’s attention was drawn there automatically. Some speculated on the shape of the mountain, while others started to discuss how it was created to be. We proceeded by guessing that the trunk of an elephant was seen, the ears were seen, the sitting Ganesha was seen, the tail of a horse was seen. We also found out the tail of the fish in that mountains. We played that type of game which was related to find out a new shape on the mountain. We started to play competitively.
Even though we could pay much attention to the view of the mountains, our attention could not be diverted from there. One of the brothers Devendra, who went with us from Kathmandu said, “It is not enough beauty to enjoy with mountains for us. We will have more chances to enjoy the mountains in the Muktinath, so do not spend all happiness here, it is nothing more than that.” Then he started humming the song as follow:
Machhapuchre Pokharako shir
Muskan chadi mayalule hanyo malai tir
Bhet hunda….
We were remembering that there are many songs written describing the beauty of Pokhara. We also found out which song was best sung in different places and everyone had the same conclusion that “Mutu chhune Lumleko hawale….” is the best song for all. It was the song of Tilak Bam Malla. It was one of the most listened-to songs in my childhood which was my favorite song. Comparing with every syllable of this song, our journey was moving forward. We got a bit of rest in Hemja. There was a sign of peace in the attractive Buddhist monastery. It helped to increase energy and inspiration for our further journey.
On the way to the Muktinath, a landslide washed away the road and we had to go through the riverbank. An excavator was finishing the road. Its tremors were giving the feeling of an earthquake. The driver, who was risking his life to build a road in the rock, felt pity for him. We stopped the car for a while and watched the scene, we were scared to talk about him repeatedly. I remembered his family. It was also thought that such a risky act was having by him due to compulsion or might be out of desire. I could not know his reason.
Even the heart of the stone can be melted by the exciting view of the Fewatal along with the cool air. Tourists were in rush to capture the scene with their cameras. We also could not remain untouched and started to capture the scene in the camera but it could not be captured the panoramic scene. Then, we moved forward by discussing that the place can convert anyone into a poet.
Our journey continued with the hum of the song and sweet conversation. We stopped for a while in Lumle. We were interested to feel the famous airflow in the Lumle because it was famous for the air blow. A famous song was also created in the name of Lumle- “Mutu chhune lumleko hawale” by Tilak Bam Malla. We felt that the air is being produced from both sides of the mountain and the Lumle is the highway for the flow of wind. The role of music is raising the importance of that place, then it became the subject of our discussion.
Our journey continued observing the natural beauty created by the Modi River. The song was reminiscent of Asala fish’s admiration for this river. After the sister took out Asala word, her husband or my brother-in-law Bhavadev said, “Why didn’t they make the school’s course using the particular song like this?” It would be a better way to learn easily for small children too.
It is written on the small gate that the Parbat district is warmly welcomed to you. Everyone’s eyes reached on it. Now the discussion started about leaving the Kaski and the beginning of the Parbat district. The brother teased Divya and said: “Did you imagine coming here any day? You must have heard the name.” She only shook her head in the support. She was able to react a little because she was teased by our brother Devendra by comparing her to the beauty of the Machhapuchhere Himal. Before that, she didn’t respond to any questions properly. Even at Dumre, she didn’t buy anything to give us as a New Year gift but we all wished her by giving a gift. My elder sister Chahana bought a set of cloth for her husband. My brother-in-law Bhabadev looked like Bollywood hero Salman Khan.
My husband gave me new clothes as a gift and I gave him a secret gift with a beautiful pack. We enjoyed the exchanging gift and traveled with two married couples and two unmarried people with romantic talk as well as the new experience of a long journey.
My brother-in-law spoke about the war with Maoists and the government in Kusma. It was surrounded by mountains and the forest so that it would be easy to attack from anywhere. So this place was a most captured area of Maoists. I was just listening about the Maoists without more interest, hence, my attention converted towards today’s destination.
We stopped a bit time to know about the most famous place and to look at the beautiful scenery, I talked to the locals in the hope of getting more information about that place. The river, Modi’s water never seen, only we saw the dry or empty river. What condition created an interesting subject to discuss and everyone’s attention was drawn. There was an electricity project, which diverted the water into the tunnel. Therefore, the Modi was being a river without water.
We had lunch in Kushma. Now, we were reaching the Kaligandki River, which is famous for Shaligram. A famous national poet, Madhav Ghimire has also written a poem in the name of Kaligandaki. Now we were on the journey with the waves of Kaligandaki. When the car reached Kali, everyone’s eyes were on the riverbank in search of Shaligram.
We crossed a number of mountains and reached Beni Bazar. It was also famous for the gateway to the Muktinath. It was situated on the bank of the Kaligandaki surrounding by beautiful ked proudly at the market and the surrounding mountain beauty. The Beni market, which is surrounded by Kaligandaki with beautiful mountains. There were a lot of vehicles in the parking came from the different cities of Nepal and India. Tourists were purchasing the necessary materials needed for Mustang, we also bought some necessary materials.
We were in a small car up to Beni because the road was pitched. We wanted to leave the car in Beni and traveled by bus up to Jomsom but unfortunately, we missed the bus. We tried to reserve a four-wheel jeep, however could not find it anymore. Therefore we took the small car for that graveled and uphill difficult road. Most of the people in Beni were suggesting us not to go by that small car up to Muktinath. Although we started our journey slowly. The road was very difficult, large jolting and rocks were there and the construction of the road also going on. We challenged the difficulties of the road.
We continued our journey even in the late evening. There was great fear of falling into Kaligandaki on the rough and narrow road. It was raining on the unknown road of the jungle. We felt like a dream seeing the situation on this path. We found a small bazaar at 9 pm with some hotels and lodges. We came to know that the name of the place is Lete, famous for Thakali meal. We were welcomed by a typical Thakali dinner in a Thakali hotel. We forgot all the tiredness and difficulties of the way by taking the Thakali dinner and the comfortable bed.
The next morning we got surprised by the exotic scene of the Dhaulagiri, our mind was suddenly thrilled with indescribably thrilled. It was smiling in the manner of welcome us. We reached just below the Dhaulagiri, it is one of the highest mountains in the world. I never reached so near to the beautiful mountain even being the daughter of Himalay’s country. I was introduced to the Dhaulagiri, it reminded me of the birthplace of the famous poet Bhupi Sherchen. I was surprised that I had touched my dear poet’s birthplace unknowingly. His famous poems were read in school and college, and now I used to teach in the university. Hence pray for a while in the name of great late poet Bhupi.
We were on the way to Muktinath again. The Late was just half distance from the Beni, however, we found a smooth and easy road than the previous day. We drove along with the Kaligandaki River, a lot of time crossing the cold water. The beauty of the coniferous plants circled jungle seen on the side of the road was pulling us with mercury. When we could not take photos of the flowering apple tree we felt an emptiness that appeared in my sister’s face, because it did not season for the flowering of the apple tree.
The beauty of the coniferous forest on the side of the road was pulling us to the other side unknowingly. The feeling of emptiness in Usha’s face was easily seen when she could not take a photo with the flowers blooming in the apple orchard. After that, my brother Devendra told me for taking a picture of a beautiful girl Usha with these beautiful flowers in the beautiful parable of nature. The journey took half an hour. We, the sisters, understood that it was a targeted complement to Usha. No matter what they understood.
On the way, two young men in full mountain getup were seen carrying backpacks and sticks in their hands. The vehicle stopped as it was walking in the middle of the road. Looking at the beauty of the mountains on the right, my eyes were on the sidewall. Like a thumping thump, but moving. Looking at that scene, they are like a yak. Those young men are herdsmen. We stopped the car and decided to take a closer look at the yak. Due to these beauties, there is no shortage of diamonds, pearls, and jewels in Nepal. Nepal is not getting poorer. There was a long debate about what it means to be poor in a country so beautiful. We went ahead telling various jokes satirizing the beauty of Nepal and the tendency to forget it and enjoy it abroad.
The beauty of the Nilgiri and Dhaulagiri did not stop attracting attention again and again. There was a desire to capture the beauty added by the red flowers in the lap of the mountains and the apple blossoms in the foothills. Words like poet Madhav Ghimireka were not enough in the description of artistry there. There was probably a lack of words to describe it in the dictionary.
The beautiful and similar houses seen in the market of Jomsom and the firewood placed on top of the house added to the beauty of the mountains. On top of that, the helicopter that wanted to land in Jomsom had added more attraction here. Mrs. Sherpa, who was milking the yak, the sweet taste of the yak’s milk after a while, the herdsman who was taking the Changra herd with his Suseli and the sweetness of Kaligandaki had made Jomsom really beautiful.
The view from Jomsom Bazaar was no less than a desert, but a desert without sand. The cracks in the ground were no less than the art carved by the craftsman. The beauty of the old palace and the temple in Kagbeni could not help but admire our views. During the day, I heard the wind blowing in Kagbeni. I also saw a herd of Changras fighting with the wind. I had only heard that the wind blows not only people but also stones. I felt it today.
According to Shailendra Bahadur Thakali, Kagbeni lies in Baragau region. Baragau literally means ‘12 villages’, but presently there are 19 large and small villages settled along the Kali Gandaki River banks and on the upper reaches of its tributaries. Kagbeni and Chhusang are the largest villages in this region. The majority of people in the Baragau region use Gurung as their surnames. Besides Gurung, there is a small group of Thakuri, descendants of the people from Jumla when this region was under Jumla’s control. I could see a beautiful village Kagbeni from the road, merely at a glance.
My mind was trying to empty the space to decorate each of these scenes with my heart. I could see that clearly in the faces of others. Those returning from today’s trip were saying: I am lucky to be here in such weather. When we first came, we did not see the mountains, but now we can see them. Somebody said that we are lucky and righteous. When we come, all the clouds have cleared and the sky has turned blue. A chance to see the beauty of the Dhaulagiri and Nilgiri. We also considered ourselves lucky and pious in our hearts. Even if you don’t want to lose sight of Kagweni’s view, you have to continue the journey. We reached near Muktinath temple. It was a pleasure to finally arrive at the destination.
We reached the temple with the pleasure of riding a horse. Exactly, It was the most heart-touchable place and attractive, peaceful and amazing too.
We try to know the religious and historical significance of this place. We got more information about that holy place from different local people and priests. This temple was located above 3750 meters of sea level at the route of the Annapurna range; it held great significance for Buddhists, Hindu, and Vaishnavas due to its historical values. There were visited by more than hundreds of pilgrims even that day, they come here to attain salvation.
The name of the temple shows its importance itself as the name is derived from two diverse words, i.e. Mukti that means Salvation, and Nath which means God. The place is also referred to as Salagrama by some peoples as various Shaligrams are found around the place, which is measured as an embodiment of God Vishnu that why people take them home to worship them.
It has a myth that as per Hindu belief due to the Curse of Brinda Lord Vishnu converted into Shaligram and this is the place where he got Salvation from the curse that’s why Lord Visnu is also worshipped as Muktinath (God of Salvation) by Hindus while Buddhists adore Lord Vishnu as Avalokiteshvara (Buddha). Muktinath is a very old Hindu Temple of Lord Vishnu. The statue of Lord Vishnu is made up of real gold and is very tall. Apart from Lord Vishnu the temple also holds a link with Lord Krishna and Lord Shiva. The local people of Nepal refer to the temple with the name Chumig Gyatsa which means Hundred Waters. The customary concierges of the temple are Tibetan Buddhist nuns. Tibetan Buddhists believe that the Muktinath Temple houses twenty-one Taras and female goddesses such as Goddess Lakshmi, Goddess Saraswati, and more as well as it is the home to loads of Dakinis also recognized as Sky Dancers. Sky Dancers are vigorous and lively female beings that are measured to bring the movement of power and vigor in space. We heard by another pilgrimage that we can see here all the important factors of life such as earth, water, air, fire, and sky at a similar time. We tried to see but not feeling at a similar time rather than different.
There are altogether five major temples, or mandir (gompa, Nepali; from dgonpa, Tibetan), at Muktinath. One building, built in the Tibetan Buddhist style, is the so-called “Temple of the Miraculous Fire”, or Jwala Mai (from jwala, flame, and mai, mother). This temple shelters natural gas fires burning from stone, earth, and water. It is a popular, sacred attraction to all pilgrims. Hindus believe that Lord Brahma made an offering here by lighting the water afire, the miracle of Jwala Mai. The most important temple is the Vishnu Mandir, a pagoda-like three-tiered structure topped with a gilded brass pinnacle. Inside is an image of Vishnu (Lokeswar in the Buddhist pantheon). Central to this temple is a black ammonite fossil that is one of the natural features for which Muktinath is so well known. Other images in this temple include the Hindu goddesses Lakshmi (goddess of fortune and Vishnu’s consort) and Saraswati (goddess of art and learning and Brahma’s wife), and the Garuda Bird (Vishnu’s mount). A second pagoda-style Hindu temple is found slightly downhill from the Vishnu Mandir but is in a state of general disrepair and disuse. So the holy place of Muktinath was not only for Hindus, it is a religious and important place for Buddhists and Vaishnavi too.
The process of bathing in 108 streams and asking God for help went on for a long time. Who forgot to take a photo and what did everyone ask for themselves? Usha bowed her head. My brother-in-law teased for other brother Devendra saying that he would get what he asked for without listening to others. I felt the heat subside in God’s arms. I stared at the statue. On top of that, I was thrilled to see the streams of clean water flowing in the mountains, the ponds, and the abode of God in high places, the quiet and beautiful place, and the beauty of the Himalayas. I wondered how God could have created such a place.
It was a place of pilgrimage for old ones but for us not only that, it was for natural beauty as well as worshiped God. In any case, I felt very happy that my dream of reaching Muktinath was fulfilled. After that, when we returned to the temple we saw many people who had built homes by the piece of stone. According to religious myth, they shared that if we built stone houses we will be able to live even in heaven together. We also built a strong and good house together with our couple. Usha was toiling. Brother Devendra teased her saying that I built the house for you and me. We thought we were greeted by the smiling face of the really haggard mountain. After that we bought sweet dry apple and chhurpi, its taste is always remaining on our tongues.
When we stopped to eat dinner after visited the temple, we had to pay attention to their food, education, and lifestyle. According to local people Passang Sherpa, who was the cook in that hotel, he made clear us about our curiosity. About food, he told that they mostly depend on the crop of barley, wheat, buckwheat, oats, mustard, potatoes, and peas for staple diet which also includes meat and dairy products. Agriculture is the main source of livelihood in the region, but not even fifty percent of the people of the region have enough farming land to support themselves, and the amount of food produced is simply not sufficient to feed the people for the whole year.
Brother Sherpa told that the local people of Muktinath buy mostly wheat flour and maize from the nearby markets and Tibet. Rice is not produced in the region at all. They have a close relationship with animals. Animal husbandry plays a vital role in the survival of the people especially in drier parts where production systems usually are based on some form of pastoralism, which involves seasonal mobility of herds and people between grazing areas. Their income source of money is the sale of dairy products like butter and ghee and dry cheese. Then they can buy food and clothes. They have been celebrating their main festivals such as loshar and yartung together in the community. Each house contributing grains to make food and chang (local beer) and preparing a feast for the whole village. Eating, drinking, singing, and dancing used to be a part of such festivals. We felt thankful towards brother Sherpa who gave clear instruction about Muktinath and also serviced delicious food. After that, we return towards Kagbeni again.
When we entered Kagbeni, we felt we were in the most popular pilgrimage place for Hindus. Hindu people worship their dead ancestors, known as Shraddha. As a Holy Ganga River, Hindus worship the Kaligandaki River also. They believe that the River originates from heaven. Therefore, they adore their ancestors in the bank of Kaligandaki, Kagbeni. We also adore our own ancestors and prayed to go to heaven if their soul was not reaching there yet. After that, we returned and stayed at Tatopani. We visited Baglung Kalika and Pokhara then we return home after four days.
After reaching home, we analyze our tour from a different perspective. We thought that was not there only worshiping God, at the same time succeed to get more pleasure. We also knew the cultural, historical, and religious values of Muktinath. We really felt that heaven is with us. We have to find out and feel ourselves. One thing, we gained knowledge about the tour that we have to go to a different place to get real knowledge. So we will go to internal tourism at list three-place or more than that if we have a time. In this way, we enjoyed New Year and made plans for the future journey.
